Doberman ear posting - improved method

I use the glue do I still need to put tape around the ears ?
I still use a wrap of tape around the top and bottom but that holds it in place nicely. Like I said in the first post here, the most important thing is to wait a few minutes for the glue to dry until it's barely tacky to the touch or it won't hold as well.
 
I still use a wrap of tape around the top and bottom but that holds it in place nicely. Like I said in the first post here, the most important thing is to wait a few minutes for the glue to dry until it's barely tacky to the touch or it won't hold as well.
Thank you ... I'm nervous lol
 
LOL don't be nervous. It's virtually the same as the back taping method, but you just use adhesive so once you figure out how long to let the adhesive dry you'll be set to go.
 
Part 2 – post removal

The post removal is very easy and stress free with this method and as you can see our model Albert is falling asleep in half of the photos.

Supplies needed:
Uni-Solve adhesive remover
Cotton balls or gauze pads
Bandage scissors, which have one blunt flat side to slide under the tape so you don’t jab their ears. You should be able to find them at most medical supply stores or order them online.
Latex or nitrile gloves to keep your hands from getting sticky (optinal)
Ear cleaning solution or wipes
Removalsuppliessized.jpg


The first step is to cut the center brace in half so each individual ear can be done separately.
Cuttingcentertapesized.jpg


Next you will apply the Uni-solve to all of the tape on the back side of the ears and let it soak in using a cotton ball to prevent it from running down the dogs ears where it doesn’t belong.
ApplyingUnisolvesized.jpg


Now it’s time to gently insert the scissors between the tape and the ears making sure the scissors clear all skin so you don’t nick them, which is very easy after the tape is loosened from the adhesive remover. I make sure the scissors come all the way through and you can see the top of them before cutting.
Cuttingbottomtapesized.jpg

Removingtoptapesized.jpg


After the tape is cut, use cotton balls soaked in the adhesive remover to work the tape and posts off the ear. This comes off quite easily as you go if you gradually remove it while working the cotton ball under the adhesive.
Looseningearfrompostsized.jpg


And out comes the post.
Removingpostsized.jpg


The last step is to remove the adhesive from the ears again using cotton balls soaked in the adhesive remover. It will take a few cotton balls and swipes to remove it all and if there’s a tiny bit left on the hair part it’s okay. Once you've removed the adhesive, use your ear cleanser to clean the canal out well.
Removingadhesivefromearsized.jpg


At this point with Albert we no longer need to use the center brace since he has full control of them and is able to hold them in position on his own, so that's one less piece of tape again.

If you get to a point where the ears are pulling in toward the center too much and they get pockets, you'll want to use the bumper method, shown here.
Ear Taping

And how they will look when they're done. Well almost since he's just toward the end of posting with his long show crop.
View attachment 9121
Great informative post. Thank you. It's been 12 yrs. since I have had to do posting so this is perfect for me since the pups ears will be done on the 18th of May. Thanks again for this illustrated method!!
 
@JanS @Archer I am changing the pups posts out every two days. I was going to try and do it every 3 days but they get so dirty playing I just can't stand to see the posts dirty. I have been putting a light single 4" vet wrap on the ears just to keep the tape clean and I can change that a couple times a day as needed to keep tape and ears free of dirt.
Is this too often? Their ears are healthy, fully healed from crop and there is no redness so I felt it was safe, although they run when they see the new posts being made. Lol but I lure them back and give them a treat for coming to me and a treat after the posting is complete. Let me know your thoughts and thanks in advance!
:)
 
I don't think every two days is too often but like I said, it's probably not necessary if the dirt is just on the outside. I know it bugs us to see them dirty though. ;) I personally don't like to use the Vet wrap but it probably doesn't hurt anything if it helps keep the posts clean.
 
I personally don't like to use the Vet wrap but it probably doesn't hurt anything if it helps keep the posts clean.
I only have it on the front (sticky part) of the post. It is the only way I can keep the garden dirt off the posts. They are having a grand time digging.:mad:
But if you think I shouldn't do it I will remove it.
Thanks !!
 
Oh that's not a problem then. I was thinking you meant you wrap the whole ear with it like many people do.
No just the sticky post. I did wrap the whole ear the first time but it curled up and I removed it for fear of it becoming too tight as it rolled up. They both will fall asleep when I finally get them up on the table and remove the old posts and clean their ears. I just give them a massage after I clean the ears and am waiting for them to dry. I am amazed at how calm they are. Lol
:)
 
I have to say @JanS your method of posting has made my life with their ears a cake walk. It works so well and is easy to do. I did have to use bumpers for Bogie because of pockets but they are looking good and the bumper seems to be correcting that issue.
Anyway just wanted to say thanks for sharing this method, it's great!!
 
Doberman ear posting - improved method

Over the years I’ve been tweaking the basic backer rod method and this way of doing it is by far the most effective and easiest of anything I’ve tried, so now that we have a new pup for a model (thank you Albert), I wanted to put a tutorial together for the rest of you.
This is not only a minimal tape method, but it also makes for stress free post changing for you and your pup and no loss of hair on the backs of the ears. This method also does not require the tedious back taping that many require and makes for a much smoother and stable post.

Before starting any type of ear posting please make sure your pups ears are healed and free of infection. Always clean the ear canal out well before beginning!

Supplies:
Backer rod, sometimes called caulk saver. Young pups usually need ½” and as they grow they will move up to 5/8”. This is easily found in the caulk department at home improvement stores like Lowe’s.
Duct tape. Any basic duck tape will work and it’s the backbone of your posts integrity. Most of the tape shown in the photos is some of the fun colored stuff you can buy at places like Wal-Mart, but the basic grey tape will work just as well.
Scissors.

Here is the link to order most of the supplies if you can't get them locally. Product Category: Adhesives/Tapes/Removers

And a better link with better prices.
Curity Porous Tape BY KENDALL 1in 2531
Osto-Bond Skin Bond Adhesive OSTOBOND, OSTOBOND, Montreal Ostomy Ostomy Care, Ostomy Accessories
UniSolve Adhesive Remover by Smith & Nephew BUY at Vitality Medical 402300, 402300, 59402500, 59402500


Makingposts.jpg


Baby powder for the hair side of the ears for easy tape removal.
Antibiotic ointment to put on the end of the posts inside the ear.
Kendall Curity 1” porous tape or Zona’s tape. Two pieces approximately 5” long, two pieces approximately 3” long and one piece about 10 – 12” long for the center brace.
Surgical adhesive
Many of the tape and adhesive products are available at your local medical supply store, but if you can’t find them locally here’s a great source. Nature's Farmacy Home of Dogzymes
Postingsuppliessized.jpg


Measure the length you want to cut your pieces of backer rod off by measuring from the bottom of the bell or flare of the ear to the tip and go an extra inch. I keep one sample so I don’t have to do it every time, then measure the new posts from there.
Measuringpostsized.jpg


You will want to measure your duct tape with the post leaving the bottom 3/4” or so exposed, which is the part that goes into the ear canal.
Measuringtapesized.jpg


Tape the backer rod lengthwise starting at the edge of the tape as shown keeping it as smooth and straight as possible.
Wrappingpostsized.jpg

Wrappingpost2sized.jpg


Apply baby powder to the hair side of the ears to keep the tape from sticking and pulling it off during removal.
Applyingbabypowdersized.jpg


Apply an even and fairly sparse coat of adhesive to one side only of the post, which will face toward the inside of the ear.
Applyingadhesivetopostsized.jpg


Now apply a coat of adhesive to the inside of your pups ear as shown and let dry until there is almost no stickiness left when you touch it – approximately 4 – 5 minutes. This totally eliminates the need for back taping and holds them in place much better. Note: only apply down to the ear lobe and not into the canal.
Applyingadhesivetoearsized.jpg


After the adhesive has dried it’s time to insert the post. Pull the ear back slightly and make sure to get the post down to the bottom of the ear canal – you will be able to tell when it goes all the way down and you do not have to worry about ear drum damage the way their ears are formed. The post should go straight up the center of the ear or closer to the uncut edge.
Insertingpost2sized.jpg


Now stretch the ear tight and attach it to the glued post and smooth into place. Notice how well they stick all by themselves.
Postsinsertedsized.jpg


Apply the two 5” pieces toward the bottom of the ear as shown making sure that the natural ear flap folds in toward the inside of the head and in the same direction as the tape. Start the tape on the post and loosely wrap it making sure it’s not cutting off circulation – very important.
Wrappingbottom3sized.jpg

Wrappingbottomsized.jpg


Apply the top tape in the same manner.
Addingtoptapesized.jpg


The last step is the center brace which is only needed until they gain control of their ears, which is usually about 3 postings or until there is always slack in the center brace. Space the ears so they are slightly out and not pointing straight up from the head as shown. Again start your tape on the tape on one of the posts going across the front first, then around the back and press the two sides together.
Centerbracesized.jpg

Centerbracebackclosersized.jpg

Centerbracebacksized.jpg


And how it should look when it’s done.
Firstpostondeck2Aug2011sized.jpg


Please feel free to ask any questions as you go and part two will be simple post removal, which needs to be done in 4 – 5 days with this method, unless you find a problem or suspect an infection.

One other note: be sure not to let the posts get wet since the tape will tighten on the ears as it dries and cut off the pups circulation.

As an additional note: It used to be recommended to wrap the whole bell, but that practice has since been dropped since it does nothing to help the ear stance and only invites infection since the ear canal can't breathe at all.
 
This is an excellent method. Could you do this on the outside of the ear vs inside. My prior vet put foam between the ears after cropping them and glued the ears to them. This allowed the stitches to breath and the ears straight up. I have a new doberman puppy and never liked the taping so the glue looks like a way better solution.
 
This is an excellent method. Could you do this on the outside of the ear vs inside. My prior vet put foam between the ears after cropping them and glued the ears to them. This allowed the stitches to breath and the ears straight up. I have a new doberman puppy and never liked the taping so the glue looks like a way better solution.
Welcome!

I wrote a few words speaking to your question over in the adhesive thread :)

Hopefully someone who has personally done the taping of ears to a piece of foam or styrofoam cups on the head so that the incision line is left untaped will chime in with specific instructions.
 
Welcome! I know @Archer knows how to do the cup method so maybe she could give you more info on it.
 
Yeah, the cup method would work as would the ziptie method. If the sutures are out, the ziptie method would be a better option. I can walk you through either method
 
This is an excellent method. Could you do this on the outside of the ear vs inside. My prior vet put foam between the ears after cropping them and glued the ears to them. This allowed the stitches to breath and the ears straight up. I have a new doberman puppy and never liked the taping so the glue looks like a way better solution.
You can only do it on the inside of the ear
 
Doberman ear posting - improved method

Over the years I’ve been tweaking the basic backer rod method and this way of doing it is by far the most effective and easiest of anything I’ve tried, so now that we have a new pup for a model (thank you Albert), I wanted to put a tutorial together for the rest of you.
This is not only a minimal tape method, but it also makes for stress free post changing for you and your pup and no loss of hair on the backs of the ears. This method also does not require the tedious back taping that many require and makes for a much smoother and stable post.

Before starting any type of ear posting please make sure your pups ears are healed and free of infection. Always clean the ear canal out well before beginning!

Supplies:
Backer rod, sometimes called caulk saver. Young pups usually need ½” and as they grow they will move up to 5/8”. This is easily found in the caulk department at home improvement stores like Lowe’s.
Duct tape. Any basic duck tape will work and it’s the backbone of your posts integrity. Most of the tape shown in the photos is some of the fun colored stuff you can buy at places like Wal-Mart, but the basic grey tape will work just as well.
Scissors.

Here is the link to order most of the supplies if you can't get them locally. Product Category: Adhesives/Tapes/Removers

And a better link with better prices.
Curity Porous Tape BY KENDALL 1in 2531
Osto-Bond Skin Bond Adhesive OSTOBOND, OSTOBOND, Montreal Ostomy Ostomy Care, Ostomy Accessories
UniSolve Adhesive Remover by Smith & Nephew BUY at Vitality Medical 402300, 402300, 59402500, 59402500


Makingposts.jpg


Baby powder for the hair side of the ears for easy tape removal.
Antibiotic ointment to put on the end of the posts inside the ear.
Kendall Curity 1” porous tape or Zona’s tape. Two pieces approximately 5” long, two pieces approximately 3” long and one piece about 10 – 12” long for the center brace.
Surgical adhesive
Many of the tape and adhesive products are available at your local medical supply store, but if you can’t find them locally here’s a great source. Nature's Farmacy Home of Dogzymes
Postingsuppliessized.jpg


Measure the length you want to cut your pieces of backer rod off by measuring from the bottom of the bell or flare of the ear to the tip and go an extra inch. I keep one sample so I don’t have to do it every time, then measure the new posts from there.
Measuringpostsized.jpg


You will want to measure your duct tape with the post leaving the bottom 3/4” or so exposed, which is the part that goes into the ear canal.
Measuringtapesized.jpg


Tape the backer rod lengthwise starting at the edge of the tape as shown keeping it as smooth and straight as possible.
Wrappingpostsized.jpg

Wrappingpost2sized.jpg


Apply baby powder to the hair side of the ears to keep the tape from sticking and pulling it off during removal.
Applyingbabypowdersized.jpg


Apply an even and fairly sparse coat of adhesive to one side only of the post, which will face toward the inside of the ear.
Applyingadhesivetopostsized.jpg


Now apply a coat of adhesive to the inside of your pups ear as shown and let dry until there is almost no stickiness left when you touch it – approximately 4 – 5 minutes. This totally eliminates the need for back taping and holds them in place much better. Note: only apply down to the ear lobe and not into the canal.
Applyingadhesivetoearsized.jpg


After the adhesive has dried it’s time to insert the post. Pull the ear back slightly and make sure to get the post down to the bottom of the ear canal – you will be able to tell when it goes all the way down and you do not have to worry about ear drum damage the way their ears are formed. The post should go straight up the center of the ear or closer to the uncut edge.
Insertingpost2sized.jpg


Now stretch the ear tight and attach it to the glued post and smooth into place. Notice how well they stick all by themselves.
Postsinsertedsized.jpg


Apply the two 5” pieces toward the bottom of the ear as shown making sure that the natural ear flap folds in toward the inside of the head and in the same direction as the tape. Start the tape on the post and loosely wrap it making sure it’s not cutting off circulation – very important.
Wrappingbottom3sized.jpg

Wrappingbottomsized.jpg


Apply the top tape in the same manner.
Addingtoptapesized.jpg


The last step is the center brace which is only needed until they gain control of their ears, which is usually about 3 postings or until there is always slack in the center brace. Space the ears so they are slightly out and not pointing straight up from the head as shown. Again start your tape on the tape on one of the posts going across the front first, then around the back and press the two sides together.
Centerbracesized.jpg

Centerbracebackclosersized.jpg

Centerbracebacksized.jpg


And how it should look when it’s done.
Firstpostondeck2Aug2011sized.jpg


Please feel free to ask any questions as you go and part two will be simple post removal, which needs to be done in 4 – 5 days with this method, unless you find a problem or suspect an infection.

One other note: be sure not to let the posts get wet since the tape will tighten on the ears as it dries and cut off the pups circulation.

As an additional note: It used to be recommended to wrap the whole bell, but that practice has since been dropped since it does nothing to help the ear stance and only invites infection since the ear canal can't breathe at all.

If we dont cover the whole of the ear , wouldnt it affect ear erection? Like we are only strengthening the tip and the base but not the middle of the ear

My boy has a somewhat weak ear cartilage and the ear flops down from the middle , so isnt it necessary for me to post the middle part too?

Too late to ask sorry :))
 
If we dont cover the whole of the ear , wouldnt it affect ear erection? Like we are only strengthening the tip and the base but not the middle of the ear

My boy has a somewhat weak ear cartilage and the ear flops down from the middle , so isnt it necessary for me to post the middle part too?

Too late to ask sorry :))
Hi! If you're using posts, the whole ear will be supported.
 

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