Unless you have extreme chewers.
Male/female Doberman pup
- Thread starter Tgodb
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Regalis
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Main areas is a good idea. My dogs are 2 1/2 and 4 1/2 (approximately) and they still are not allowed in bedrooms. There's just no reason for them to be in there, for us.
Definitely need to make sure everyone knows the rules. Jumping may be cute now, but it won't be cute in a few short months. Start the boundaries immediately. It's hard, but important to remember that while little, they are still Dobermans and still need clear rules and boundaries. Start training immediately. You don't regret starting early, you will regret waiting ... They grow faster than we like.
The guys - without knowing their personalities - make sure they understand that riygh housing with each other or the dig is not allowed. Dobermans ARE protection dogs and even the best tempered can get riled up with rough housing. For example - if hubs jokingly smacks my ass, Kaizer will grab his hand. If hubs gets rough housing with the kids - kaizer will step in the middle and put an end to it by barking. Hubs wrestles with kaizer, I do not. And definitely not when he was a pup. But hubs *knows* that if he gets bit, it's his own damn fault. But again - this wasn't started until he had some solid obedience because it could be dangerous otherwise. They're not labs (and I say that as a lab owner lol).
Commands to start training immediately - sit, down, some sort of drop it (you'll find many of us use "out" as a drop it command), leave it, stay and recall. Stress these. Every single day. Even when he seems to know them, practice practice practice.
And enjoy him
hell drive you CRAZY. It's normal. He'll act like a possessed demon shark. It's normal. He'll cuddle and be adorable. Also normal!
Exercise - limit jumping and high impact stuff for the first year or so. I'll see if I can find the puppy exercise guide again - it's especially important with larger dogs to follow. No forced running or jogging. No sharp turns. No jumping off furniture.
Definitely need to make sure everyone knows the rules. Jumping may be cute now, but it won't be cute in a few short months. Start the boundaries immediately. It's hard, but important to remember that while little, they are still Dobermans and still need clear rules and boundaries. Start training immediately. You don't regret starting early, you will regret waiting ... They grow faster than we like.
The guys - without knowing their personalities - make sure they understand that riygh housing with each other or the dig is not allowed. Dobermans ARE protection dogs and even the best tempered can get riled up with rough housing. For example - if hubs jokingly smacks my ass, Kaizer will grab his hand. If hubs gets rough housing with the kids - kaizer will step in the middle and put an end to it by barking. Hubs wrestles with kaizer, I do not. And definitely not when he was a pup. But hubs *knows* that if he gets bit, it's his own damn fault. But again - this wasn't started until he had some solid obedience because it could be dangerous otherwise. They're not labs (and I say that as a lab owner lol).
Commands to start training immediately - sit, down, some sort of drop it (you'll find many of us use "out" as a drop it command), leave it, stay and recall. Stress these. Every single day. Even when he seems to know them, practice practice practice.
And enjoy him
hell drive you CRAZY. It's normal. He'll act like a possessed demon shark. It's normal. He'll cuddle and be adorable. Also normal! Exercise - limit jumping and high impact stuff for the first year or so. I'll see if I can find the puppy exercise guide again - it's especially important with larger dogs to follow. No forced running or jogging. No sharp turns. No jumping off furniture.
Regalis
Notable member
Ooof. Yeah. I should have said - the black Kong's! They're more durable. But obviously, not destruction proof
I don't think anything is doberman proof, tbh lolOh yes, I won't be doing any of the rough housing lol, I'm far too small and when he gets bigger he will be too much for me to handle doing that. I'll let him know not to rough play until he learns his manners and what not so that he doesn't confuse the two.
I'll start the "small training" as soon as we get him home, and I've already told my husband that I wanted to take him to doggy kindergarten or some sort of more official training to learn the things that are harder.... although sit/stay/drop/down will be what I work on immediately. I do like that his family now has started some of that stuff with him so he has some sort of an idea, and his parents were very well mannered when we met them. Mom got a little excited and tried to paw at me since I was level with her, but human dad told her no and sit and she stopped. Dad was excited too but when he was told to sit and shake he did and he was fine after that.
I'll start the "small training" as soon as we get him home, and I've already told my husband that I wanted to take him to doggy kindergarten or some sort of more official training to learn the things that are harder.... although sit/stay/drop/down will be what I work on immediately. I do like that his family now has started some of that stuff with him so he has some sort of an idea, and his parents were very well mannered when we met them. Mom got a little excited and tried to paw at me since I was level with her, but human dad told her no and sit and she stopped. Dad was excited too but when he was told to sit and shake he did and he was fine after that.
Regalis
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Puppy classes are great. But do your research. Dobes are not like training other dogs. You need a place that understands working breeds and has solid rules in place. A bad interaction with another dog at training can lead to a lifelong issue (Bri has experience with this). The typical pet store training? Eh, I'd avoid it. They tend to be one size fits all approach.
Socializing - this term seems to be misunderstood. Yes, get him out and about (once he's vaccinated fully). But he dies NOT need doggy friends or free play with other dogs or to be pet by everyone. Socializing is more about getting them out and teaching them to focus on *you*. Do not allow interactions with strange dogs. Just don't do it. It's not worth the risk. Ignoring strange dogs is desirable. Not saying he can't play with other dogs. He can. Just be sure they're dogs with stable temperaments that are good with puppies. Not all dogs are, just like not all humans like kids
Socializing - this term seems to be misunderstood. Yes, get him out and about (once he's vaccinated fully). But he dies NOT need doggy friends or free play with other dogs or to be pet by everyone. Socializing is more about getting them out and teaching them to focus on *you*. Do not allow interactions with strange dogs. Just don't do it. It's not worth the risk. Ignoring strange dogs is desirable. Not saying he can't play with other dogs. He can. Just be sure they're dogs with stable temperaments that are good with puppies. Not all dogs are, just like not all humans like kids
It’s not your size that counts, it’s the training you do.
Both my male and female are solid high drive beasts. I am 5’9”, I weigh 109lbs soaking wet and trust me all I have to do with mine when they get stupid is a quick, authoritative HEY and give them a look. My husband says the look I give will make everyone stop what they are doing and sit. If my male gets amped up, I give him “the look” and he immediately lays down. You have to be a strong leader but also a fair one. Positive only training does not work with this breed. They have to learn through a quick correction that negative behavior will not be tolerated.
Positive behavior should always be praised.
Size is not relevant when your dobe is well trained.
I had to totally eliminate all Kong’s, black one included because within days they would be shredded. I now only allow solid hard rubber balls and toys.
Regalis
Notable member
Yup. I'm 5'3 and just over 100 pounds. Kaizer outweighs me (for the sake of clarity - he is not pure doberman). One sharp "hey" is all it takes. The lab is 82-88 pounds, depending on time of year. He's not fat, though, but solid muscle. Here again - a sharp "hey" is all it takes. They can be in full beast mode and that hey stops them in their tracks. They *know* momma means business.
But you do have to be fair. Set clear rules. Be consistent (if you let them up on the couch whenever, don't expect them to not jump up there .... Seems like common sense, but a lot of people don't get this). Same with jumping on people. If you let it happen sometimes, without a clear command that it's ok, it's not fair to expect them to be mind readers. Kaizer gives "hugs" (jumps up and puts paws in shoulders) but only on command. Otherwise, he knows all 4 on the floor.
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Love that quotePuppy classes are great. But do your research. Dobes are not like training other dogs. You need a place that understands working breeds and has solid rules in place. A bad interaction with another dog at training can lead to a lifelong issue (Bri has experience with this). The typical pet store training? Eh, I'd avoid it. They tend to be one size fits all approach.
Socializing - this term seems to be misunderstood. Yes, get him out and about (once he's vaccinated fully). But he dies NOT need doggy friends or free play with other dogs or to be pet by everyone. Socializing is more about getting them out and teaching them to focus on *you*. Do not allow interactions with strange dogs. Just don't do it. It's not worth the risk. Ignoring strange dogs is desirable. Not saying he can't play with other dogs. He can. Just be sure they're dogs with stable temperaments that are good with puppies. Not all dogs are, just like not all humans like kids
True, true. I meant more so that I won't be rough housing with him lol.
But yes, I will for sure look into the more professional side of training. My husband has a lot of contacts within the community that hopefully we can do a more one-on-one training vs a group thing. I feel like any dog will be easily distracted in those kinds of settings really. I do want him to learn that a sharp "no" means no and to stop doing whatever it is that's bad.
As far as at home training goes, what kinds of techniques have you guys used to train them? Like I said, as an adult I've never had a dog of my own and have never really done any kind of training with them when I was younger. I guess that's the one thing that I'm really worried about is the training side of things...
We don't really have any people or other dogs that are around. My husband and brother in law have dogs that basically live outside (to be fair and I hope I don't get any backlash from it, we've tried to let them be inside dogs, but they wanted nothing to do with it and they are VERY happy outside in their HUGE enclosed dog run with their own little doggy pool, lean-to, dog house, etc.) but those are the only dogs that are ever around and there's no one really that comes around but I will want to socialize him with those that do come around so he's not people aggressive.
I love that quote though!!! That's what I've been reading.... a lot of the ignoring what's irrelevant and doesn't need to play with everything/everyone.
But yes, I will for sure look into the more professional side of training. My husband has a lot of contacts within the community that hopefully we can do a more one-on-one training vs a group thing. I feel like any dog will be easily distracted in those kinds of settings really. I do want him to learn that a sharp "no" means no and to stop doing whatever it is that's bad.
As far as at home training goes, what kinds of techniques have you guys used to train them? Like I said, as an adult I've never had a dog of my own and have never really done any kind of training with them when I was younger. I guess that's the one thing that I'm really worried about is the training side of things...
We don't really have any people or other dogs that are around. My husband and brother in law have dogs that basically live outside (to be fair and I hope I don't get any backlash from it, we've tried to let them be inside dogs, but they wanted nothing to do with it and they are VERY happy outside in their HUGE enclosed dog run with their own little doggy pool, lean-to, dog house, etc.) but those are the only dogs that are ever around and there's no one really that comes around but I will want to socialize him with those that do come around so he's not people aggressive.
I love that quote though!!! That's what I've been reading.... a lot of the ignoring what's irrelevant and doesn't need to play with everything/everyone.
Initially I bought one of those fluffy fleece crate pads when mine was a pup....lasted 2 days. He ripped it to pieces and I am glad I caught him in time because he is an eater. I bought a K9 Ballistics Tough Crate Pad next and had it ever since. He has tried and been unsuccessful with chewing/tearing it apart. Not as comfy as the fluffy pads but at least it’s something other than the floor and it saves his elbows somewhat. Mine is 14months now and have recently let him have free reign of the house. He sleeps on our couch or on my recliner at night.
As others, I believe pet insurance is a must, especially for first time Doberman owners. I really did not want to spend the money but something pushed me to make the phone call. Two months later, my boy swallowed two socks and had a $4,000 abdominal obstruction surgery. Better safe than sorry with this!!
Don’t know if I missed it but whatcha doing with his ears? Crop or natural?
As others, I believe pet insurance is a must, especially for first time Doberman owners. I really did not want to spend the money but something pushed me to make the phone call. Two months later, my boy swallowed two socks and had a $4,000 abdominal obstruction surgery. Better safe than sorry with this!!
Don’t know if I missed it but whatcha doing with his ears? Crop or natural?
His ears right now are natural. My husband wanted the cropped ears, but I think he's too old to get it done now. His tail is docked, and I like the floppier ears vs them being cut.
I will definitely look into the pet insurance though!
Can you find those pads at a pet store? Or do you have to order them off of a website.
I will definitely look into the pet insurance though!
Can you find those pads at a pet store? Or do you have to order them off of a website.
Regalis
Notable member
Training - I'll defer to others on this. I couldn't explain my methods if I tried.
But what I can tell you is - stick with it. Even when you feel like it's a lost cause. They WILL catch on, eventually. But be warned, makes tend to be slower to mature in pretty much every way. But if you stick to your guns, you can do things like this ... (Those biscuits are the equivalent of dog crack in our house ...)
Lots of patience, consistency and building up to bigger stuff. They started with the treats 20 feet away. Now I can set them on their paws. It took time, patience and lots if c
consistency to get it down (especially with two, because if one budges all hell breaks loose lol as they then both scramble to make sure the budger doesn't get both cookies).
Start simple. Sit. Down. Come. Keep it brief. Puppies don't have great attention spans. Treats, toys and praise are all suitable rewards. I don't do much correction at the pyppu stage. If they're disinterested, try again later. If you or they get frustrated, end on a positive note and again, try later. Set them up to succeed - don't expect a puppy to have a long distance recall, for example. Start with minimal-no distractions and build up from there. You'll learn together. You'll find over time what does and does not work.
But what I can tell you is - stick with it. Even when you feel like it's a lost cause. They WILL catch on, eventually. But be warned, makes tend to be slower to mature in pretty much every way. But if you stick to your guns, you can do things like this ... (Those biscuits are the equivalent of dog crack in our house ...)
Lots of patience, consistency and building up to bigger stuff. They started with the treats 20 feet away. Now I can set them on their paws. It took time, patience and lots if c
consistency to get it down (especially with two, because if one budges all hell breaks loose lol as they then both scramble to make sure the budger doesn't get both cookies).
Start simple. Sit. Down. Come. Keep it brief. Puppies don't have great attention spans. Treats, toys and praise are all suitable rewards. I don't do much correction at the pyppu stage. If they're disinterested, try again later. If you or they get frustrated, end on a positive note and again, try later. Set them up to succeed - don't expect a puppy to have a long distance recall, for example. Start with minimal-no distractions and build up from there. You'll learn together. You'll find over time what does and does not work.
Regalis
Notable member
How old is he? Cropping can usually be done up to 12 weeks, if I remember correctly. Some vets will even go to 14.
Right, right... I think it'll help that I'll be the only one home a lot of the time, so we can take some time to learn sit, stay, etc. then take a break and come back to it later. Easy since there will be little to no distraction....
And to be honest, I can't remember exactly how old he is. My husband did most of the talking to the owner. He's better with people and remembering things and being the "adult" lol I was
And to be honest, I can't remember exactly how old he is. My husband did most of the talking to the owner. He's better with people and remembering things and being the "adult" lol I was
I meant to catch up on this last night but congrats on the decision to bring a new Doberman pup into your life!
I'm hoping the breeder gave you AKC papers with him and you can tell the age by looking at them, or asking your husband. LOL
If you still have the opportunity to have the ears cropped, I'd look into good crop vets right away.
I'm hoping the breeder gave you AKC papers with him and you can tell the age by looking at them, or asking your husband. LOL
If you still have the opportunity to have the ears cropped, I'd look into good crop vets right away.
Regalis
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