The Importance Of Correct Structure

DocReverto

Formerly CRD
This is going to be an extremely long post. Hopefully this help brings to light the misunderstanding that conformation sports are just beauty pageants.
Structure/movement are incredibly important to our breeds survival.
Now granted this is for a Boxer. Boxers are incredibly similar to our breed, and even without that the structure argument applies to all breeds.

See below, and enjoy!

HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 1

5steps.jpg


The 5 phases of movement
  1. Reach - The front leg reaches forward as far as his angulation permits
  2. Pull - The shoulder musculation pulls / transfers his weight forward
  3. Transition - The middle of the stride
  4. Push - The rear musculation takes over and pushes his weight forward
  5. Drive - The rear leg drives through as far as his angulation permits
front-correct.jpg
body-correct.jpg
rear-correct.jpg


The Correct Boxer

On the following pages I will attempt to show how just how much small differences in ...
  • Amount of, or lack of forechest
  • Balance of shoulder and rear angulation
  • Length or angle of upper arm
  • Length or angle of shoulderblade
  • Length of leg and pasterns
  • Length of second thigh
  • Incorrect pelvis angulation
.... Can make a difference to a Boxer’s style and movement, and how to recognize it at a glance.​


HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 2

Showing how the angle of the shoulder blade affects extension:
correct-anglulation.jpg

The well laid back shoulder blade gives more extension to the front leg
Note that the length of upper arm does not affect the angle of extension, only the timing
uprightt-anglulation.jpg

The steeper the angle of the shoulder blade the less extension of the front leg

Now when you can see the difference side by side you will discover that the first dog
will need less steps and energy to cover the same distance



HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 3

Showing how the length of the upper arm affects timing:
correct-anglulation.jpg

Correct
  • As this dog is balanced front and rear he does not need to lift his feet high off the ground to extend forward
  • Each foot will flex and bend as it comes forward without excessive lift in a smooth almost ground skimming action
  • The action is smooth and rhythmical
short-upperarm.jpg

Short Upper Arm + strong rear
  • As this dog does not have balanced angulation front and rear he will need to lift his front feet higher to allow time for his excellent rear angulation to come forward with the desired drive.
  • The front feet will lift higher and have a goose "stepping action"
  • The action will not look as smooth and rhythmical as the correct dog

The second dog will need to use more energy to cover the same distance



Showing how less rear angulation but good front angulation affects timing

correct-anglulation.jpg

Correct
  • As this dog is balanced front and rear he does not need to lift his feet high off the ground to extend forward
  • Each foot will flex and bend as it comes forward without excessive lift in a smooth almost ground skimming action
  • The action is smooth and rhythmical
rear-weak.jpg

Straighter Rear Angulation + good front
  • As this dog does not have balanced angulation front and rear he will need to bend and lift his front feet higher to make allowances for his poor rear angulation timing.(cadence)
  • The front foot will lift in an almost hackney action
  • The action may look pretty but it is not correct
The first dog will need less steps and energy to cover the same distance
T




Now compare a dog with less front and rear angulation
correct-anglulation.jpg

Correct
  • Viewed from the front and rear this dog's legs will come closer to the center of his body (kinetic balance)
  • He will extend his front and rear legs smoothly to their full extent of his excellent angulation - but will not roll!
  • (Well angled puppies may roll as their muscles are not as firm)
straight-weak.jpg

Straight front and rear angulation
  • As this dog has poor angulation front and rear he is balanced
  • His front feet will extend without needing to bend or lift excessively as his rear feet do not need additional time for cadence.
  • His action will look smoother than the two unbalanced dogs above, but is not correct
  • From the front and rear his feet willNOT converge as much as the correct dog. This may look prettier and more controlled to the novice, but is incorrect!
  • He will need to take many more steps to cover the same distance as the dog on the left
Many judges make the mistake of putting up the second dog.
They mistake kinetic balance with toeing in! (Toeing in or out is a ligament problem)

Always look for the easiest, most ground covering, energy saving movement!


HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 4

Well angled live dog in action
golddust_moving.jpg

Correct reach and drive
  • You can see how this dog reaches out well in front and has powerful rear drive.
  • Note how the left front foot has left the ground allowing for the back left foot to take its place
  • Note the rear extension of the back rear leg and foot creating thrust or drive
  • You can see the kinetic balance even in the side view (feet coming in to centre of gravity)
  • Notice how the topline remain


HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 5

The legs move towards the centre of gravity = KINETIC BALANCE

Correct
front-move.jpg

From the front
rear-move.jpg

From the rear

There is no break in the straight line – shoulder to foot or hip to foot





Incorrect
barrel-hocked.jpg

Barrel Hocked
or Swivel Hocked
cowhocked.jpg

Cow Hocked
or punching out

In these examples the straight line is broken ... These rear movements are commonly seen



 
HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 6

Now let’s look at the stacked Boxer and the differences in structure
….. and how they affect movement



The Correct Boxer
front-correct.jpg

  • Note the straight front legs
  • Note also the fill between his legs
  • Toes pointing straight ahead
body-correct.jpg

  • This dog is very well balanced and should reach out well in front and have powerful rear drive.
  • Note the angulation front and rear…. All angles are 90-110 degrees
  • He is not extreme in any way…. Just a well balanced working dog!
rear-correct.jpg

  • Note the hocks standing straight - not turning in or out


HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 7

Front View
Correct Front
front-correct.jpg

  • Correct front with good fill between the front legs
Prominent Pro-sternum
front-hollow.jpg

  • Hollows on each side of chest
  • Fill between front legs is further back
  • Can be narrower across the chest
V Front

v-front.jpg

  • A shorter upper arm brings the legs more forward and the chest is less visible, creating a "steeple" front
Narrow Front
narrow-front.jpg

  • Narrow through and lacks fill

Wide front
front-heavy.jpg

  • Note the extra width and depth of chest - his chest is slightly below his elbow
Heavy front
bossy.jpg

  • Note the very heavy shoulders and excessive width between the front legs
 
HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 8

On the following pages I will overlay this correct Boxer's angulation - side view,
over the most common stuctural problems you see in the showring.


overlay.jpg


  • This should enable you to see the difference between each dog and the correct Boxer.
  • The outline (in red) and angulation (in yellow) will be placed over each example.
  • Small differences can then be easily seen
  • All problems of stucture affect movement!




OK, but may be problem?
More forechest - Correct angulation
more-forechest.jpg

  • In this drawing I have modified the front giving him more forechest.
  • You can see the comparison. Not a lot… but what a difference it makes!
  • It is his balance that is affected making him look heavy in the chest, but he should reach out well in front and have powerful rear drive
  • Still a nice dog but not as good as No 1 as he is looking a little out of balance
  • This dog must be viewed from the frontas he could be overloaded in shoulder.
"Pouter Pigeon" forechest - Correct angulation
pouterpigeon.jpg

  • This dog is similar to the last dog - but his chest instead of being nicely rounded cuts away sharply.
  • Not a lot of diffence again… but noticible!
  • He does not have the smoothly curving ribcage or depth of chest that would give him plenty of heart room.
  • This won’t affect his reach and drive as he is still well balanced.
  • Seen from the front the fill between his legs will be missing as because his breastbone is more prominent this is usually accompanied by hollows on each side.
  • This dog must be viewed from the front as he could be too narrow in chest.

The type of structural problems shown above may not affect movement
if the dog's angulation is correct and his chest is of the correct width!




Definite problems
"Heavy Fronted" - longer upper arm
heavy-front.jpg

  • Because this dog has a fuller, deeper forechest and a longer upper arm. He looks loaded in front and out of balance.
  • Note the extra depth and slightly shorter, more angled shoulderblade!
  • Because of the longer upper arm his chest is slightly below his elbow.
  • He will have a long forward reach and may have a rotary action to give his rear legs time to catch up to the front legs
Long second thigh
overangulation.jpg

  • You can see with this overlay that this dog’s rear feet are behind the original feet.
  • This dog has a very good front but he is longer in the second thigh. His action will be uncoordinated and he will lack drive.
  • Because of his excess length in second thigh he may stop with his rear legs more under himself for balance.
  • He may move either cowhocked or barrel hocked or a combination of both - swivel hocked




HOW STRUCTURE AFFECTS MOVEMENT
Page 9

More Severe Problems
"Terrier" Fronted

terrier-front.jpg

  • This dog has a short upper arm, but his shoulderblade is well laid back and of correct length. He is what is termed a Terrier Front.
  • His second thigh is long
  • He will reach well forward as the angle of his shoulderblade is correct but he will lift in the front due to his shorter upper arm and his long second thigh.
  • His timing will be uncoordinated as his front feet will take longer to strike the ground than his rear feet and his rear will lack drive.
  • He can look to be light on his feet and "Hover" as his front legs try to coordinate with his rear.
  • He will have a slight pause before his front feet hit the ground to allow for his rear.
Longer legs
long-legs.jpg

  • This dog's front legs and rear pasterns are too long.
  • He looks to be stylish and more elegant, but he is off type and out of balance.
  • His long front legs make his body look "off square" and his back over-short.




Overdone
overdone.jpg

  • This dog's front legs are too short.
  • He has "Leg-O-Mutton" hindquarters – an over-developed first thigh and a narrow second thigh.
  • His short front legs make his body look "off square" as his length looks longer than his height due to his heavier front.
  • He looks strong and powerful but he is off type. (More common in Europe)
  • Those overdeveloped hindquarters gives the dog a "squatting look".
  • He will cover ground because of his angulation but his hind legs will not have the same drive as a dog with stronger second thigh
  • He may lift and have a rotary action in the rear to allow for his exceptional forward reach.
Short shoulderblade and upper arm
short-shoulder.jpg

  • This dog's shoulderblade and upper arm are shorter and straighter.
  • His rear is strong but he is out of balance.
  • This dog will lift his front feet when moving to compensate for his strong driving rear using a semi-hackney gait.
  • He will be padding or paddling coming towards you




Short Upper-arm and Shoulderblade
short-uarm.jpg

  • This dog has a short but well angled upper arm and a shoulderblade which is shorter and more upright.
  • Because his shouldblade is shorter and more upright and his upper arm is angled correctly, his neck has wrinkles where his withers meet his topline.
  • He may also be wider across this area as the shouldblade has lost it "tent effect"
  • Note here the lack of flow of neck into the withers!
  • His rear is strong and well angulated so this dog will also lift his front feet (padding) to compensate.
Lacking angulation front and rear
straight-fandr.jpg

  • This dog also has a short upper arm, and his shoulder blade is even more upright.
  • His rear angulation is also a little straighter but it balances his front.
  • This dog will fool a lot of inexperienced judges as his lack of angulation front and rear allows the dog to track fairly true, coming and going.
  • Because his shouldblade is further up his neck there is an abrupt angle where the neck meets the withers and a longer back.
  • Side movement will show that he does not reach out in front, nor drive as much as a dog with correct angulation.
  • Note the lack of "flow" from neck into withers




Upright shoulders and straight rear
straight-front-rear.jpg
rear


  • This dog's shoulderblade and upper arm are shorter and straighter.
  • This dog is first thigh is strong but his angles are straight.
  • He lacks length of pelvis therefor has no stern behind his tail
  • This dog will track fairly true, coming and going because he will lack extension front and rear.
  • When viewed from the side you will see he does not cover ground because of his angulation
Well angled shoulders and straight rear
straaight%20behind.jpg

  • This dog's shoulderblade and upper arm are are correct
  • His rear is very straight and he is out of balance.
  • He lacks length of pelvis therefor has no stern behind his tail
  • He he will have no drive from behind
  • This dog will lift his legs high (rotary action) in the rear when moving to compensate for his good reach in front to allow the timing to synchronize.




Long and wrong!
long.jpg

  • This dog is upright in shoulder, has a short upper arm, long back, long loin and weak rear quarters.
  • He drops away behind the tail (short pelvis).
  • He also lacks width of first and second thigh.
  • As his poor front is in balance with his poor rear and his back is longer he may look to be covering ground, but it will be just an illusion.
Lots of problems
all-wrong.jpg

  • This dog looks to have a short back but with a short ribcage - "Herring-Gutted"
  • He is too tucked-up and weak in loin.
  • Lack of front angulation will give him limited front extension
  • Because of his steep croup this dog will move his rear more under himself with a droop to his rear
 
Im not sure if everyone calls it the same, but in our group of people we show with we call that moving in triangles.

You can tell when dogs have naturally nice movement because they will "move in triangles" so to speak. And it all comes naturally.
Its similar to how dogs with very nice balanced structures often stack themselves naturally.
A true correct dog will do the things you ask in the ring, naturally everywhere else.

You look at the upside down triangle the driving legs make, and then the normal expanded triangle the reached out legs make
 
Good to know Matt! I sometimes make up my own terms so I'm sure the triangles is right. LOL
 
You can see what im talking about in this picture.
This is Raven's lover. She has such fantastic movement. Although you can still see how her reach in the front is a bit limited.
When watching a horse race its much easier to tell.
The slightest difference in angulation will cost the horse the race. The better conforming horse always wins.

image.webp

I see a lot of dogs in the ring that look nice while standing still, but have no reach and drive during movement. Thats where structure really never lies, and is an important reason an AKC show is mainly comprised of movement.
 
Rose is a very nice girl and has had fantastic movement every time I have seen her.

I am one of those that thinks if they move well, the conformation must be decent. Maybe it's the horse person in me ;)

I have been thinking of posting some pics of Aria's movement to get an opinion. Her shoulders are slightly straight, but I think she has pretty good reach for a youngling. Will get some Topeka show pics up sometime soon.

I think it would be fun someday to have a DCF "show" with pics of movement and stacking.
 
I think she has great rear drive and her reach seems nice to me, but I am still studying all of this crap and am new at it.
 
I think she has great rear drive and her reach seems nice to me, but I am still studying all of this crap and am new at it.

Both of the girls are just a tad long in the rear, nothing drastic.
I haven't noticed it messing with the movements, but the fronts may balance them out.

See in the photo how her right rear leg looks like she is about to propel herself in the air? Thats what Im looking for when I notice "great drive" she is really pushing off of the back legs.
 
I agree and think all three puppies are a bit long and have been.

She definitely has rear drive....you should see her vertical jump, lol. She went from sitting to hopping on top of her 39" tall kennel in one hop. It was rather impressive.

I noticed her rear drive in Topeka. She definitely was the best driven out of all the girls that day
 
Great read, I find all the movements fascinating!
Thanks for sharing!

Movement is my favorite part of the dogs too! Its really interesting seeing how tying everything together produces what type of movement. Which is why I think you see a lot of "movement" judges. You can tell almost everything you need to know about structure, by movement.
 
the professional groomers (almost always gay)
Perhaps a dumb question, but just how much grooming can a dog like a Doberman need after they've been bathed and have their nails the correct length? Or are you just referring to all breeds in general?
 
Perhaps a dumb question, but just how much grooming can a dog like a Doberman need after they've been bathed and have their nails the correct length? Or are you just referring to all breeds in general?

Dobermans require very little at the show.

Water, Olive oil, a little colored powder to hide scratches.

That's why Dobes show so early. We are one of the lowest maintenance breeds out there.
 
Hell sometimes I don't even bathe the dogs before hand.

It's not uncommon for us to roll out of bed 15 minutes before we show and run up spray some Olive oil and do our thing
 
Hell sometimes I don't even bathe the dogs before hand.

It's not uncommon for us to roll out of bed 15 minutes before we show and run up spray some Olive oil and do our thing



So you have changed your style? I thought you posted a thread with all the stuff you did with Raven to get ready for a show.
 

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