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Leadership tips, suggestions

drgnrdr

New Member
How does your dog see you….Leader or Follower?
You might be surprised that you are actually following, not leading. Try and answer these questions.
1.Does your dog usually walk ahead of you, not looking back either in the house or when you go for a walk?
Does he tug or bite at the leash?
2. You know when he wants to play because he…Brings you a toy/ball? Or Barks at you? Plays “keep away”?
3. You know when he wants attention (wants to be petted or you’re ignoring him) because he:
A). gets up under your hands?
B ). barks or makes noises (whining included)?
C). puts his head on you or puts a paw on your leg or knee?
D). Jumps up on you with both feet or just stands upright looming over you?
4. When going thru doors he always dashes ahead?
5. He’s not listening to you and doesn’t pay attention to you?
6. Jumps up on the couch/chair/bed uninvited?
7. Sits with you with a paw on your foot or lays on your feet, or likes to lean into you?
8. He’s growled or refuses to budge when you try to move him or take something away from him?
9. When he's laying asleep, do you try to walk around him or step over him, so you don't disturb him?
If you are afraid of your dog, or he's nipped or bitten you or anyone, a Certified Behaviorist is needed. Don't try these solutions/tips yet.

See below for solutions and tips. Training is always the Key when you have a dog.
Make sure a vet has checked him out. You need to teach him "sit" first before asking for it. Every dog needs a leader, if you do not take the position he will. Once he's in that position, he'll either resist giving up his status, or change because he never wanted the position to begin with.
All family members need to do this. You need to give the dog an attitude adjustment, but you can not meet aggressiveness with aggressiveness, no alpha rolls or neck shakes. Stand up straight, scowl on face, a deeper or lower voice and even a well placed “EH!” sound will let him know you mean business.
You don’t need to yell at the dog, you need to be calm but confident.
From now on you will practice Nothing In Life Is Free. The dog must earn everything he gets. Sit is what he needs to do for anything he wants. Dinner? Sit (only say it once). No Sit? Food goes on counter, walk away and try again 2 minutes later.
You control ALL resources, anything the dog enjoys or likes. Wants to sleep on the couch? okay but sit or down for me and I'll invite you up.

Solution/Tip #1: Do not let him pull or walk in front of you, he's leading you out on the forage/hunt trip. Let him potty before you head out, this way he doesn’t need to pee and mark everywhere. He doesn’t need a formal heel, that’s no fun, and too much concentration for any length of time. But, a loose leash walk next to you, where his head doesn’t go past the length of your stride, or where your foot falls, is good enough. He doesn’t get to mark or sniff every blade of grass unless you allow it, keep walking if he wants to stop, don’t let him get a chance to.
Talk to him, tell him he's walking good, praise him for doing so, this way he knows he's doing what you want. After maybe 15 or 20 minutes of good walking make him sit and tell him” okay” release him and let him sniff around or lay in the grass, if he wouldn’t pee at home, let him do so if he needs too. In the house, if he wants to rush ahead of you, (a lot of herding breeds do this), as he starts to come up along side of you, cut him off by using your body to block the access, or sometimes it's just easier to just change direction, you may get dizzy for awhile but it will teach him to wait and see which way you're going. Don't let your dog put a paw over the leash or grab, tug or chew on your leash. Apply Bitter Apple or some type of taste deterrent or just tell him "stop" or Uh-Uh. When you teach him "leave it", that can be used so he will leave it alone.

Solution/Tip #2: If he brings you a toy or ball and drops it in your lap tell him “Uh-Uh” and calmly put the toy back on the floor, keep doing it until he gives up. If he starts barking at you, tell him “quiet” and leave the room if he doesn't do so (see #3 below). After he gives up, you know he wants to play, you can pick up the object and start the game, the difference is it’s under your terms not his when play happens.

Solution/Tip #3: Do not let him demand attention from you:
(A), remove your hand quickly don’t let it slide over him, say Uh-Uh and ignore him.
( B ). Teach him to stop barking. For whining say “quiet” if they do not, get up and leave the room and go behind a closed door for a maximum of 30 seconds, come back out if he's quiet for at least 3 seconds after the 30 seconds is up, only come out if he's calm and quiet.
(C & D). Tell him “off”, and tell him sit if he's standing or jumping , praise calmly if he's calm.
You can call him to you 1000 times a day for pets and love, but it’s under your terms, and until he understands you're the leader, keep this to a minimum, call him over for petting for a few seconds and then that’s it until later.

Solution/Tip #4: Teach him “wait”, or get a leash (for safety) and correct him (not with the leash) using your voice and confident manner to tell him “uh-Uh” if he tries to rush thru, you can block the doorway with your body, have him sit before you step thru the door, then invite him thru..

Solution/Tip #5: Teach him a focus exercise like “watch me”. If he realizes you’re in charge he will start to listen to you, this one falls into place once the NILIF starts, and the teenage phase of his life ends.

Solution/Tip #6: Dogs are not allowed the privilege of being on the best places in the house, where the leader sleeps or sits. Only when you invite him. Sleeping with you sends the wrong signals.
He's at the very least equal with you. Sleeping in his own space, crate or on a bed next to yours is fine.
Maybe sleeping with you can be a goal, but after he knows who is the leader and only if he will sit and gets invited up. Teach him the "Off" command.

Solution/Tip#7. Keep him off of you. If he tries to take your space, do not move away to make room for him, tell him “off” or lean back into him so he gets displaced, not you. Some social type dogs lean on us for social contact, if a dog comes to you with ears back, head lowered, and soft eye contact and leans on you, that's social contact, you can let them, just don't move your foot from under them, or move away, without telling them, "okay get up", or " let's go"

Solution/Tip #8. This is a hard one, if your dog has growled or nipped at you at you for anything, you will need to really control things, no pigs ears or food type things until he can drop them when you say so, get him off or away from something by using a treat and then control the environment, use booby traps or shut doors and such to keep him off the furniture for now, so there is no physical confrontation. Get a Professional trainer, (look at APDT.com website for listed trainers who use Positive Reinforcement)
It’s always best to get a vet exam to be sure nothing is medically wrong to cause aggressive behavior.

Solution/Tip #9. If your dog likes to sleep in doorways or in the hallway and you have to step around him or over him, don't do it. Tell him to move, you are coming thru. Whistle, clap your hands, shuffle your feet towards him, make him move.

Some dogs get slightly worse before they get better. Consult a trainer. NILIF is a non confrontational way to give your dog an attitude adjustment.
Don’t bend over and give commands, stand up straight in a position of authority. Get eye contact and tell him one time what you want, if he knows the cue word, he should comply, if not, deepen/lower your voice, step into him, and tell him again. Wait for him to comply, if he tries to leave, say “uh-uh” and try again. You do not want to repeat your cue words over and over, he will start to tune you out.
Don’t get on the floor and have your dog jump all over you.
No giving of food from table, no begging, do not free feed, he needs to earn it.
A dog that sees you as Leader will usually come to you with head lowered, a tail wag and/or ears back. Not a crawl submissive posture, but a happy I know you lead look. Teach him what you want thru training.
Be calm and confident.

(Leader or Follower) All thoughts are from the author only.

All of the material contained in this handout is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, copy by writing the information down or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from Drgnrdr. If and/or when permission is given, any reproduction of this handout must contain the authors name and credit given to them. Not to be misinterpreted coming from any major Pet store or their affiliates.. All Rights Reserved
 
"Don’t bend over and give commands, stand up straight in a position of authority. Get eye contact and tell him one time what you want, if he knows the cue word, he should comply, if not, deepen/lower your voice, step into him, and tell him again. Wait for him to comply, if he tries to leave, say “uh-uh” and try again. You do not want to repeat your cue words over and over, he will start to tune you out."

so...you do it again and he doesn't listen again. THen what? You said you don't want to have to repeat yourself, so what do you do? Just stand there?
 
you'll have to try and figure out why he didn't comply: to distracted? you'll need to work around low distractions first then build to higher level, you didn't work and ask for sit in ALL locations (dogs don't generalize) you haven't practiced in the car with it, so he doesn't do it, he's not sure; he didn't understand? maybe he doesn't know it as well as you think, or if you are using treats you may not have faded the lure and treats out soon enough or have done it to soon; aversive methods some dogs learn only to sit if you tug their collar with the leash the way it was taught or some learn only to sit if you touch their butt area, again, the way it was taught. Juvenile transition age, being a teenager? Some will not do it, depends on why your asking for a sit? how many times? did you not correct them when you asked for a sit, they went and tried to walk away, you let them with no consequence or an UH-UH, you just gave up? I will stand there for short time and try to figure what is missing? are they hurt, distraction, asked for too many times they are bored?
I will stand and wait depending on if I asked them the first time and I see what they do, did I say it to harsh (dog looked away or sniffed ground teling me they are using cut-off/calming signals that I did) the first time, how sensitive is the dog? I have one lady who says loud cues, and the dog shuts off everytime no matter what I say she does it cause that's the way she was taught by her father, I told her to stop yelling them, she didn't listen I told her he would try and move, she didn't believe me, she yelled sit at him 3 times and he tried to climb up and over the walls trying to get away, she got frustrated again the dog would not listen she was frustrated he knew but didn't know why she was, I stopped her from jerking him around took the leash, got him to make eye contact, asked him to sit and he did, no fuss no muss, she then began to see, but still thinks heavy handed tones and leash jerks are the answer, I am still working on her, it's a habit hard to break.
Hand signals were used, did they see the hand signal? alot of times the dog will comply with hand signals more than the word.
If your asking for a sit for dinner/put leash on/open door? I walk away or put leash/food bowl down till compliance. Door stays shut untl compliance.
so there are many variables, try and figure out which applies. Does that clear it up for you?
In short depends on why, when and what your asking for, so sometimes, yes you need to stand and wait for compliance, because you won't let them do anything else but sit.
 
Well don't tell Helio or Sniper they can't sleep with me. He is the best bed partner ever and just the right temp to keep me warm on a cold dreary night. PLUS he loves to play wrestle in bed. I have always slept with my dogs and have never worried about dominance issues. It is more a mind set than just issuing commands for everything. Helio always beats me to the bed!!! Sometimes I stop half way down the hall and wait to see how long it takes him to come back and check on me. It is so funny - he will look at me like hurry up I'm already in bed.

A dog who does not respond to your voice does not have a strong bond. I would work on building a positive bond. Say his name and when he looks at you reward him - every time he comes to you reward him. Start teaching him from the beginning that coming to you is a good thing. That your voice means something. This is probably a dog who was born and raised outside as a puppy not inside and close to the family. Teache the dog that your voice and his name mean something special.


so...you do it again and he doesn't listen again. THen what? You said you don't want to have to repeat yourself, so what do you do? Just stand there?

A lot of this answer depends on the age of the dog we are talking about - Puppies - make it fun - the best place in the world should be with you. So if you call a puppy and they don't come sit down on the ground and clap your hands and look at the ground and dig around speaking in a higher pitched voice - Oh what is this looky here - and he will come running they are curious and they are naturally social. Then reward him big time for coming. After 4 months they begin to get a little independence so have them on a long leash and call them to you if they do not come then can give a quick gentle pop of the leash and encourage them again to come to you then reward big time. Jump up and down and get all excited and treat them. Once they hit this stage never let them just run loose if you are going to call them to you. Have a long line and practice calling them and rewarding them. You won't have a big problem with them coming - NEVER punish a dog for not coming as it breaks the bond of trust. If you have to go get them then go get them and when you get them play with them to show them that you are fun.

If they have a strong toy drive like the ball or tuggy then use it to encourage them to come - They can't resist a good play with you. ALL this builds a strong bond and desire to be with you. I like the tuggy because I can keep them close tug as a reward for coming and then I stop the tuggy and have them sit then throw it as a reward for coming and sitting. MAKE IT ALL FUN as a puppy and you will have positive success.

For Schutzhund certainly I want a dog that WANTS to engage me so if he brings the tuggy to me then I reward him with a couple tugs and throw it. Certainly if you compete with your dog I would not discourage this behavior. It shows good pack drive and good retrieve because he prefers to play with you. That means you have a positive bond. After rewarding him then you can put the tuggy up if you are busy. JMHO
 
We have a severe tugger !!! She pulls the entire time we walk, so I have been using short-leash with her...She tries to push out ahead of us and is easily distracted by other dogs, cats, etc.(Example:) We went onto our upper property ( part wooded) and I had her on a 16 foot tether to let her run. She saw a cat, and the cat approached her, she bolted and pulled me to the neighbor's yard! A regained control via a brick wall to use as leverage. She completely ignored my "No, and stop" commands. My hand is torn up from the tether strap. Now when we walk it is short leash and Wait, Stop, and Come are repeated throughout the entire walk. Is this the right thing to do? She is given praise, petting, and treats for right responses.
 
Now when we walk it is short leash and Wait, Stop, and Come are repeated throughout the entire walk. Is this the right thing to do? She is given praise, petting, and treats for right responses.
The shorter leads are always easier and you have more control for walks like that. Another thing that has worked well for many is a waist lead. Your body is much more solid than your arm so you have a lot more control.

Not everyone uses them but many trainers firmly believe in them because it helps let the dog know that there is no give there and a loose lead is the only way to go. It also gives you hands free control since we sometimes depend on our arms and hands to do it for us, but we also send the wrong signals that way too.
Here is a pic of one we have.
Waist lead sitting June 18 11 cropped.jpg
 
We have a severe tugger !!! She pulls the entire time we walk, so I have been using short-leash with her...She tries to push out ahead of us and is easily distracted by other dogs, cats, etc.(Example:) We went onto our upper property ( part wooded) and I had her on a 16 foot tether to let her run. She saw a cat, and the cat approached her, she bolted and pulled me to the neighbor's yard! A regained control via a brick wall to use as leverage. She completely ignored my "No, and stop" commands. My hand is torn up from the tether strap. Now when we walk it is short leash and Wait, Stop, and Come are repeated throughout the entire walk. Is this the right thing to do? She is given praise, petting, and treats for right responses.
Prong collar.
Was a game changer here.
Our female is very much like you described.Seriously,I considered building a chariot so she could pull me around.Seriously.
It's .4 mile to the hills I let her off lead to run.Before the prong the arthritis in my hands would be ScReaMing at me,to the point some days I had to skip the walk or throw her in the truck and drive over there.Hard to live out the rest of the day with hands so sore picking up a gallon of milk hurt.
After the prong,one quick pop and she's in a heel position.She starts moving forward again and another quick pop.Then she gives some slack and settles down.
It was also a game changer for my wife.She got to the point of frustration with the constant pulling.Her comment on the first walk with the prong.."she's like a completely different dog"
 
I had done a lot of work on Kris using positive training but she started to pull when I was heeling her. I switched to a prong collar at the beginning of Feb. and she now walks on a flat collar, no pulling. I switch back to the prong every now and then just to remind her but mainly she is just on the flat collar.
 
Well don't tell Helio or Sniper they can't sleep with me. He is the best bed partner ever and just the right temp to keep me warm on a cold dreary night. PLUS he loves to play wrestle in bed. I have always slept with my dogs and have never worried about dominance issues. It is more a mind set than just issuing commands for everything. Helio always beats me to the bed!!! Sometimes I stop half way down the hall and wait to see how long it takes him to come back and check on me. It is so funny - he will look at me like hurry up I'm already in bed.

:rofl::rofl: We have a three flight stairs up stairs and Tasha runs in front of me on the second flight I squat down where she can't seee me and she slinks back to see where I went and then I jump up around the corner. We did it every night but she always acts surprised :D
 
:rofl::rofl: We have a three flight stairs up stairs and Tasha runs in front of me on the second flight I squat down where she can't seee me and she slinks back to see where I went and then I jump up around the corner. We did it every night but she always acts surprised :D
LOL, that's a game our dogs love to play too. Della more than Albert but it's just plain fun to them.
 
Don't let your dog put a paw over the leash or grab, tug or chew on your leash. Apply Bitter Apple or some type of taste deterrent or just tell him "stop" or Uh-Uh. When you teach him "leave it", that can be used so he will leave it alone.



A cure fir the leash biter is pretty simple. Buy a choke collar, hook the leash to the collar and other end of the collar to the collar the dog is wearing. Sort of like a leash extender. The dog will take one bite of the metal choke collar and leash biting days will be over.
 
A cure fir the leash biter is pretty simple. Buy a choke collar, hook the leash to the collar and other end of the collar to the collar the dog is wearing. Sort of like a leash extender. The dog will take one bite of the metal choke collar and leash biting days will be over.
Now that's a pretty good idea right there.
Daisy;leash destroyer.
 
Now that's a pretty good idea right there.
Daisy;leash destroyer.


It really works. Drake went through a couple of leashes before I figured this one out.
I like a leather leash, my hands are pretty much numb from the MS so I can almost feel the leather. I need a little more bulk to feel it. Problem was, Drake must have thought it was rawhide or something. We'd be walking along and that little punk would be gnawing on his leash before I knew what was going on. Then one day I tried the choke collar on the end of his leash. He bit down on the metal just one time and no more leash biting.:)
 
These are all really great tips. I'm concerned that Silas doesn't see me as his pack leader. I honestly think he looks to my chihuahua Max as his leader. Silas will sit when told. He will go out and play fetch with me everyday. Then come the times when he is full of energy and wants to jump on the bed or couch. We always tel him "no" if we don't want him there. Have had a time with the nipping and biting. And sometimes it seems when I'm pushing him away and saying "no" that he gets more and more aggressive. To the point of barking and growling. When I put him off the bed and onto his own, and tell him to lay down, I want him to lay down. But he will cot bialy come back at me or the kids. How to I CHANGE who the pack leader is? All it takes from Max is a growl or a nip and he puts Silas in his place. What do I need to do to take over?

PS: Silas is 4 months this week.
 
Nipping or biting is unacceptable from a dog in all forms. But 4 months is pretty young. Just remember that the rules you establish with your dog while they're young are the rules your dog will follow when they get older.
 
How does your dog see you….Leader or Follower?
You might be surprised that you are actually following, not leading. Try and answer these questions.
1.Does your dog usually walk ahead of you, not looking back either in the house or when you go for a walk?
Does he tug or bite at the leash?
2. You know when he wants to play because he…Brings you a toy/ball? Or Barks at you? Plays “keep away”?
3. You know when he wants attention (wants to be petted or you’re ignoring him) because he:
A). gets up under your hands?
B ). barks or makes noises (whining included)?
C). puts his head on you or puts a paw on your leg or knee?
D). Jumps up on you with both feet or just stands upright looming over you?
4. When going thru doors he always dashes ahead?
5. He’s not listening to you and doesn’t pay attention to you?
6. Jumps up on the couch/chair/bed uninvited?
7. Sits with you with a paw on your foot or lays on your feet, or likes to lean into you?
8. He’s growled or refuses to budge when you try to move him or take something away from him?
9. When he's laying asleep, do you try to walk around him or step over him, so you don't disturb him?
If you are afraid of your dog, or he's nipped or bitten you or anyone, a Certified Behaviorist is needed. Don't try these solutions/tips yet.

See below for solutions and tips. Training is always the Key when you have a dog.
Make sure a vet has checked him out. You need to teach him "sit" first before asking for it. Every dog needs a leader, if you do not take the position he will. Once he's in that position, he'll either resist giving up his status, or change because he never wanted the position to begin with.
All family members need to do this. You need to give the dog an attitude adjustment, but you can not meet aggressiveness with aggressiveness, no alpha rolls or neck shakes. Stand up straight, scowl on face, a deeper or lower voice and even a well placed “EH!” sound will let him know you mean business.
You don’t need to yell at the dog, you need to be calm but confident.
From now on you will practice Nothing In Life Is Free. The dog must earn everything he gets. Sit is what he needs to do for anything he wants. Dinner? Sit (only say it once). No Sit? Food goes on counter, walk away and try again 2 minutes later.
You control ALL resources, anything the dog enjoys or likes. Wants to sleep on the couch? okay but sit or down for me and I'll invite you up.

Solution/Tip #1: Do not let him pull or walk in front of you, he's leading you out on the forage/hunt trip. Let him potty before you head out, this way he doesn’t need to pee and mark everywhere. He doesn’t need a formal heel, that’s no fun, and too much concentration for any length of time. But, a loose leash walk next to you, where his head doesn’t go past the length of your stride, or where your foot falls, is good enough. He doesn’t get to mark or sniff every blade of grass unless you allow it, keep walking if he wants to stop, don’t let him get a chance to.
Talk to him, tell him he's walking good, praise him for doing so, this way he knows he's doing what you want. After maybe 15 or 20 minutes of good walking make him sit and tell him” okay” release him and let him sniff around or lay in the grass, if he wouldn’t pee at home, let him do so if he needs too. In the house, if he wants to rush ahead of you, (a lot of herding breeds do this), as he starts to come up along side of you, cut him off by using your body to block the access, or sometimes it's just easier to just change direction, you may get dizzy for awhile but it will teach him to wait and see which way you're going. Don't let your dog put a paw over the leash or grab, tug or chew on your leash. Apply Bitter Apple or some type of taste deterrent or just tell him "stop" or Uh-Uh. When you teach him "leave it", that can be used so he will leave it alone.

Solution/Tip #2: If he brings you a toy or ball and drops it in your lap tell him “Uh-Uh” and calmly put the toy back on the floor, keep doing it until he gives up. If he starts barking at you, tell him “quiet” and leave the room if he doesn't do so (see #3 below). After he gives up, you know he wants to play, you can pick up the object and start the game, the difference is it’s under your terms not his when play happens.

Solution/Tip #3: Do not let him demand attention from you:
(A), remove your hand quickly don’t let it slide over him, say Uh-Uh and ignore him.
( B ). Teach him to stop barking. For whining say “quiet” if they do not, get up and leave the room and go behind a closed door for a maximum of 30 seconds, come back out if he's quiet for at least 3 seconds after the 30 seconds is up, only come out if he's calm and quiet.
(C & D). Tell him “off”, and tell him sit if he's standing or jumping , praise calmly if he's calm.
You can call him to you 1000 times a day for pets and love, but it’s under your terms, and until he understands you're the leader, keep this to a minimum, call him over for petting for a few seconds and then that’s it until later.

Solution/Tip #4: Teach him “wait”, or get a leash (for safety) and correct him (not with the leash) using your voice and confident manner to tell him “uh-Uh” if he tries to rush thru, you can block the doorway with your body, have him sit before you step thru the door, then invite him thru..

Solution/Tip #5: Teach him a focus exercise like “watch me”. If he realizes you’re in charge he will start to listen to you, this one falls into place once the NILIF starts, and the teenage phase of his life ends.

Solution/Tip #6: Dogs are not allowed the privilege of being on the best places in the house, where the leader sleeps or sits. Only when you invite him. Sleeping with you sends the wrong signals.
He's at the very least equal with you. Sleeping in his own space, crate or on a bed next to yours is fine.
Maybe sleeping with you can be a goal, but after he knows who is the leader and only if he will sit and gets invited up. Teach him the "Off" command.

Solution/Tip#7. Keep him off of you. If he tries to take your space, do not move away to make room for him, tell him “off” or lean back into him so he gets displaced, not you. Some social type dogs lean on us for social contact, if a dog comes to you with ears back, head lowered, and soft eye contact and leans on you, that's social contact, you can let them, just don't move your foot from under them, or move away, without telling them, "okay get up", or " let's go"

Solution/Tip #8. This is a hard one, if your dog has growled or nipped at you at you for anything, you will need to really control things, no pigs ears or food type things until he can drop them when you say so, get him off or away from something by using a treat and then control the environment, use booby traps or shut doors and such to keep him off the furniture for now, so there is no physical confrontation. Get a Professional trainer, (look at APDT.com website for listed trainers who use Positive Reinforcement)
It’s always best to get a vet exam to be sure nothing is medically wrong to cause aggressive behavior.

Solution/Tip #9. If your dog likes to sleep in doorways or in the hallway and you have to step around him or over him, don't do it. Tell him to move, you are coming thru. Whistle, clap your hands, shuffle your feet towards him, make him move.

Some dogs get slightly worse before they get better. Consult a trainer. NILIF is a non confrontational way to give your dog an attitude adjustment.
Don’t bend over and give commands, stand up straight in a position of authority. Get eye contact and tell him one time what you want, if he knows the cue word, he should comply, if not, deepen/lower your voice, step into him, and tell him again. Wait for him to comply, if he tries to leave, say “uh-uh” and try again. You do not want to repeat your cue words over and over, he will start to tune you out.
Don’t get on the floor and have your dog jump all over you.
No giving of food from table, no begging, do not free feed, he needs to earn it.
A dog that sees you as Leader will usually come to you with head lowered, a tail wag and/or ears back. Not a crawl submissive posture, but a happy I know you lead look. Teach him what you want thru training.
Be calm and confident.

(Leader or Follower) All thoughts are from the author only.

All of the material contained in this handout is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, copy by writing the information down or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from Drgnrdr. If and/or when permission is given, any reproduction of this handout must contain the authors name and credit given to them. Not to be misinterpreted coming from any major Pet store or their affiliates.. All Rights Reserved
Thank you great advice.
 
Prong collar.
Was a game changer here.
Our female is very much like you described.Seriously,I considered building a chariot so she could pull me around.Seriously.
It's .4 mile to the hills I let her off lead to run.Before the prong the arthritis in my hands would be ScReaMing at me,to the point some days I had to skip the walk or throw her in the truck and drive over there.Hard to live out the rest of the day with hands so sore picking up a gallon of milk hurt.
After the prong,one quick pop and she's in a heel position.She starts moving forward again and another quick pop.Then she gives some slack and settles down.
It was also a game changer for my wife.She got to the point of frustration with the constant pulling.Her comment on the first walk with the prong.."she's like a completely different dog"


What age is appropriate to use a prong collar? My recently adopted Dobermann is 9 months old and she pulls and pulls ill tug on her leash attached to her collar and say heel or stop and it works about 40% of the time. I say stay, then "okay let's go".
 
What age is appropriate to use a prong collar? My recently adopted Dobermann is 9 months old and she pulls and pulls ill tug on her leash attached to her collar and say heel or stop and it works about 40% of the time. I say stay, then "okay let's go".
Depends on the dog but I started using a prong collar on my girl at about 10 months. She knew all her commands but still pulled and sometimes lunged at critters. There are some useful training videos on you tube for correctly using a prong collar as you will need to teach your dog how to respond to it.
 

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