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Egg shells

Discussion in 'Doberman Nutritional Care' started by Nutz, Sep 3, 2018.

  1. Nutz

    Nutz Hot Topics Subscriber

    Just a quickie.... There is a school of thought that says finely crush up egg shells and mix in with food, It is a source of calcium............... Any comments?

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  2. strykerdobe

    strykerdobe Hot Topics Subscriber

    We only use Organic Eggs.
    We give one Raw egg everyday with the shell.

    Yes it is a good source of calcium.
    Also I would be careful not giving puppies younger than 6mo (their body can't control absorption of calcium) any added calcium. Because it can cause bone growth issues.

    About a 1/2 Teaspoon ground eggshell is about 800-1,000mg of calcium.

    If your going to add any calcium or any other supplement Research the Source where it comes from!

    Good Read:

    DogAware.com Articles: Crash Course on Calcium (Dog World Magazine)

    Crash Course on Calcium
    When you feed a homemade diet, adding the right amount of calcium is vital.

    Cook's Corner column by Mary Straus, published in Dog World Magazine February 2010.

    No homemade diet is complete without calcium, yet many recipes omit this important ingredient. Although a lack of calcium won’t cause immediate problems, a deficiency can lead to bone deformities, pain and even fractures over time.

    Calcium-phosphorus balance is something that's often discussed in both human and canine nutrition. There should always be more calcium than phosphorus. Recommended rations for dogs range from 1-to-1 to 2-to-1 calcium to phosphorus. If calcium and phosphorus are not properly balanced in the diet, the body pulls calcium from the dog's bones to make up for that deficiency, leaving them weakened.

    When to add calcium – and when not to
    You must add this essential mineral to all homemade cooked diets and to raw diets that do not include raw meaty bones. If you feed a combination of fresh and commercial foods, and more than about one quarter of your dog’s diet is fresh foods, it’s best to add calcium to balance out the phosphorus in the added foods. The more fresh foods you add, the more important it becomes to provide calcium.

    As important as it is to add calcium to homemade diets, it is equally important not to add calcium to complete-and-balanced commercial diets, especially for large-breed puppies and pregnant females. Although excess calcium is not dangerous for adult dogs (they simply excrete what they don’t need), calcium binds many minerals, so adding too much decreases the nutritional value of what you feed.

    Puppies younger than six months have less ability to control their absorption of calcium, so an excess amount can lead to skeletal problems, such as hypertrophic osteodystrophy (HOD, a bone disease that causes severe pain and lameness, often in multiple limbs), osteochondrosis (OCD, which affects cartilage, causing severe joint pain) and hip dysplasia, particularly in large-breed puppies.

    Bitches that are given extra calcium during pregnancy can develop a life-threatening condition called eclampsia when they begin nursing puppies. This condition is caused by the body’s inability to adjust quickly to the sudden need for more calcium after receiving too much before. It is fine to give extra calcium after the puppies are born, just don’t increase calcium before whelping.

    Not enough calcium
    People often think feeding high-calcium foods such as yogurt will supply enough calcium to balance a homemade diet. But the amount of calcium in these foods is only enough to balance the phosphorus they contain; it's not enough to balance the phosphorus in the rest of the diet or meet a dog’s calcium needs.

    The same is true of multivitamin and mineral supplements. Although these supplements often contain calcium, they are designed for dogs that are already getting adequate calcium in their diets.

    One food that provides more than enough calcium is raw meaty bones that dogs can fully consume, such as chicken necks and backs, whole or ground. If your dog's diet includes at least 20 percent raw meaty bones, there's no need to add calcium to the diet.

    Sources of calcium
    You can use any form of plain calcium, such as calcium carbonate or calcium citrate. Calcium from seaweed is a good choice because it provides other beneficial minerals, primarily magnesium, but also small amounts of zinc, potassium, iodine and selenium. The same is true of bone meal. Calcium from oyster shells, dolomite and bone meal can be contaminated with lead, so look for brands that state they have been tested and found to be safe. Bone meal; calcium carbonate; calcium citrate; and calcium fro seaweed, oyster shells and dolomite are marketed for people, and can be found in health food stores, drug stores and even many grocery stores. You can also use products made for dogs, such as Animal Essential Natural Seaweed Calcium (formerly Calcium from the Sea).

    Ground eggshell is one source of calcium that's easy to obtain. Rinse the eggshells and dry them in an oven set to a low temperature or on the counter overnight, then grind them in a clean coffee grinder. To ensure the calcium can be fully absorbed, grind eggshells to powder rather than just crushing them into pieces.

    One-half teaspoon ground eggshell provides approximately 1,000 milligrams calcium. Ground eggshells will last indefinitely as long as they are kept dry. Some people prefer to refrigerate them, but it's not necessary.

    Certain dog food mixes, such as Preference from The Honest Kitchen and Homemade Dinner Mixes from See Spot Live Longer, are designed to have fresh foods added to them. These types of mixes usually contain calcium, so it’s not necessary to add any more as long as the product states that it meets Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) guidelines when fed as directed. If unsure, contact the manufacturer and ask.

    How much calcium
    A good rule of thumb is to add approximately 800 to 1,000 milligrams of calcium, or ½ teaspoon ground eggshell, per pound of fresh food. If you feed a combination diet of fresh and commercial foods, add enough calcium to match only the amount of fresh food; do not factor in the commercial food.

    Because growing puppies need more phosphorus than adult dogs, bone meal is the best source of calcium for them. Bone meal contains phosphorus in addition to calcium, so if you use bone meal, increase the amount to 1,000 to 1,200 milligrams of calcium per pound of food. Each brand of bone meal will provide a different amount of calcium per teaspoon. Check the produce label before using.

    For example, if you give your dog 8 ounces (½ pound) of fresh food, add 400 to 500 mg of plain calcium, or ¼ teaspoon ground eggshell, or 500 to 600 milligrams of calcium from bone meal. If you use bone meal that provides 1,200 milligrams calcium per teaspoon, add ½ teaspoon of bone meal to your dog’s diet.

    Don’t forget to split the calcium between meals. If you feed 8 ounces of food daily, split between two meals, add 200 to 250 milligrams plain calcium, or 1/8 teaspoon ground eggshell, or 250 to 300 milligrams of calcium from bone meal, to each meal.

    Check your recipes
    During the 2007 pet food recall, I read a lot of recipes that did not mention adding calcium. Many books on homemade diets also leave out this important information (or discuss it in a separate section), and don’t specify how much calcium to add.

    It isn't harmful to feed occasional meals that don’t include added calcium. Adult dogs can get by without added calcium for a few weeks or even months, but eventually a deficiency of this mineral will cause serious consequences. If you choose to feed a homemade diet, be sure to add an appropriate amount of calcium to keep your dog healthy.
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  3. Antman408

    Antman408 $ Forum Donor $

    I mix 2 quail eggs into my dudes food every other day. Sometimes I’ll rotate weeks depending if I’m able to get to the store. I give the egg whole and poke a hole in it so the yellow and white can drain out or else it splashes everywhere when he bites it lol. You can give whole egg.
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  4. Snoops

    Snoops Member


    My understanding from reading was that only cooked eggs should be given and the shells can be crushed to provide calcium.

    I heard raw eggs depletes the dogs body of biotin
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  5. strykerdobe

    strykerdobe Hot Topics Subscriber

    Also if your going to do your own.
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  6. Antman408

    Antman408 $ Forum Donor $

    Cooking the egg will decrease the nutritional value of the egg.
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  7. strykerdobe

    strykerdobe Hot Topics Subscriber

    But anytime you heat something up it can destroy proteins, enzymes, amino acids and vitamins.

    Eggs are one of the most complete foods. It can grow a chicken!

    We feed a Raw diet and add other foods (meat, Raw Goats Milk, sardines) which contain Biotin. So we are not concerned about a Biotin deficiency.

    We also just crush the shell with our fingers as small as we can get it.

    Its the Raw egg white that contains the protein Avidin. It can prevent absorption of Biotin (Vit. B7). Cooking the egg white can stop this. So I would not just feed Egg whites.

    And The yolk is rich in nutrients and B Vitamins like Biotin (Vit. B7).

    This is a rare condition and could take months. I think feeding 2-3x's a week would not be an issue.

    We have been feeding eggs for years and have never had an issue. We always have blood tests done yearly!

    Eggs For Dogs - Good Or Bad? - dogsnaturallymagazine.com
      1. Eggs are a complete food source. Eggs are an important source of nutrition for not only many …
      2. Eggs are a good source of: Vitamin A. Riboflavin. Folate. Vitamin B12. Iron. Selenium. Fatty Acids.
      3. Egg whites contain enzyme inhibitors. One of the reasons pet owners are warned off eggs is that …
      4. Egg whites cause Biotin deficiency. Egg whites contain avidin, a Biotin (one of the B vitamins) …
    Eggs: Why Your Dog Needs Them …

    There are a lot of myths and misconceptions about raw feeding and it seems the poor egg is often dragged through the mud as a dangerous food for dogs.

    In fact, one of the most asked questions here is, can I add eggs for my dog’s diet?

    (We have a great article that talks about eggs and 4 other essential foods to add to your dog’s raw diet. Click here.)

    Opponents of eggs claim that they are too high in cholesterol, they pose a risk of salmonella and that they cause a biotin deficiency.

    To that, we say nonsense!

    Eggs are not only a cheap and safe source of raw food for your dog, they are one of the most complete and nutritious meals you can choose!

    6 Reasons To Give Your Dog Eggs …
    1. Eggs are a complete food source
    Eggs are an important source of nutrition for not only many predators, but for the chick living inside it. Inside the egg are all the nutrients necessary to grow a new chicken. Eggs are also one of the most complete sources of amino acids, the building blocks of protein.

    2. Eggs are a good source of:
    • Vitamin A
    • Riboflavin
    • Folate
    • Vitamin B12
    • Iron
    • Selenium
    • Fatty Acids
    3. Egg whites contain enzyme inhibitors
    One of the reasons pet owners are warned off eggs is that the whites contain enzyme inhibitors which can interfere with digestion, especially in very young and old animals.

    This is true, but it only means that eggs should not be the mainstay of the diet.

    It is perfectly safe to feed several eggs a week to the average dog. If you don’t see evidence of digestive upset when feeding eggs to dogs, then he should have no trouble if eggs are a regular part of his diet.

    Cooking the egg white could solve this problem but much of the nutrition would be lost so it is best to feed it raw.

    4. Egg whites cause Biotin deficiency
    Egg whites contain avidin, a Biotin (one of the B vitamins) inhibitor. Biotin is one of the B vitamins and is important for cellular growth, fatty acid metabolism and good skin and coat. Biotin deficiencies are quite rare and it would take an extraordinary amount of eggs to create a deficiency.

    Moreover, egg yolks are very high in biotin, so as long as you feed the entire egg, there are few worries. There are other sources of biotin in the diet as well. Liver is a particularly good source.

    Once again, cooking the egg white will eliminate the risk but your dog will lose much of the nutritional value. If feeding your dog eggs on a regular basis, simply make sure he gets the whole egg, not just the white.

    5. Eggs contain salmonella
    Dogs are well equipped to handle the bacteria in raw foods. The health of the hen is also important, so it is best to choose eggs from organic, free-range chickens.

    Proper storage and keeping the eggs cool will also go a long way toward keeping the harmful bacteria at a manageable level.

    6. Don’t forget the shells
    If eggs are fed with the shell on, they are a nearly complete food source for dogs. The shells can also be valuable for dogs who have difficulty eating bones.

    Simply dry the shells out and grind them in a clean coffee grinder until they are powdered and sprinkle the powder on your dog’s food.

    It’s important to remember that many eggs are sprayed with a chemical to make them look shiny, so it is best to get your eggs from a local organic farmer.

    Eggs are cheap, easily obtained and an outstanding source of nutrition for your dog. The overall concensus with raw feeders is that the health benefits of eggs certainly outweigh the risks – and feeding eggs whole, the way nature intended, goes a long ways to counteract harmful imbalances.

    Try feeding your dogs a few eggs a week and you’ll see better health, inside and out.

    (What other raw foods should your dog be getting in his diet? Click here.)

    About the Author Dana Scott
    Dana Scott is the Founder and CEO of Dogs Naturally Magazine. She also breeds award winning Labrador Retrievers under the Fallriver prefix. Dana has been a raw feeding, natural rearing breeder since the 90's and is a sought after speaker and outspoken advocate for natural health care for dogs and people. Dana works tirelessly to educate pet owners so they can influence veterinary medicine and change current vaccine, food and preventive health practices. Visit Dana's Labradors at Fallriver Labs
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  8. LifeofRubie

    LifeofRubie Active Member

    Rubie gets a raw egg now and then but I only gave egg shells to my raw fed guy when he stopped getting whole bones.
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  9. MyBuddy

    MyBuddy Moderator Hot Topics Subscriber

    Buddy gets a raw egg a few times and week. Shell and all and he loves it!
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  10. Minionmama

    Minionmama Member

    Do you feel kibble and raw eggs occasionally? I've wondered about doing that now that we've stopped feeding a completely raw diet. Any tummy trouble?
  11. GennyB

    GennyB Moderator Hot Topics Subscriber

    Shh.........don't tell my dogs. They'll be crushed. :cool:
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  12. Nutz

    Nutz Hot Topics Subscriber

    OK, so my feeding is: - unhindered 24h access to kibble, there are 2 different types, one adult for the Swiss Shepherd and puppy kibble....

    I know she eats both...

    Can't bear the thought of my children being hungry....

    This I bolster with a mixture of half the recommended dosage of baby formulae milk, mixed with a good dollop of fresh milk, raw meat sawdust & 2 raw eggs every second day, and on the alternate day, a puppy vitamin tablet.

    Every morning & evening I hand out to each dog 2 or 3 pieces of scrap meat meat bits... About the size of half a hand...
  13. YuennX

    YuennX New Member

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  14. MyBuddy

    MyBuddy Moderator Hot Topics Subscriber

    Buddy seems to have a iron stomach. He loves food! He would be a little piggy if I allowed it. He gets fed twice a day with occasional treats and or scraps. I do not feed raw. I just don't feel that equipped to do it. But I do use toppers. I will feed the raw egg, shell and all, along with vegetables from my garden gone through the food processor. I freeze containers to use throughout winter. He loves strawberries from my garden too. My husband and I don't eat them so somebody has to when the grandkids are not here. LOL. Occasionally when I am cutting up chicken for us to cook I will give him a couple of raw pieces too.
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  15. Kaiser2016

    Kaiser2016 Active Member

    You've got Scruffy as proof of your leadership skills so who am I to question your methods, yet, here I am :woot2: - free feeding a Doberman? :scratch: I don't even free feed my 7 pound cat. A Doberman, as a dominant breed, is supposed to have zero doubt about who provides their food (survival), so your hands have to be on their food bowl when they start eating.
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  16. Nutz

    Nutz Hot Topics Subscriber

    Morning K

    I have absolutely no problem with debating the various ways of managing dogs... It’s informative, brings in new & fresh thinking and I can only get “better at it”, and never take criticism in a personal perspective............... So, thanks for bringing up your points, I appreciate it.

    Ok, so having got that aside, I’ve set the ground rules from day one... (Free feeding being one of them) BUT....

    If you so much as think you will get uppity with me I will immediately withdraw your privileges....

    So how’s that working for me so far.....

    When I say OUT........ She goes outside Hehehe sometimes have to speak twice.... But she goes... well done privilege remains

    When I open the gate, she stays behind the rail.... When I open the car door she stays in the car...

    So far, The only privilege that I’ve had to “withdraw” is between get into bed time and go to sleep time she is currently locked outside........ her blooming on-the-bed-off-the-bed-on-the-bed-off-the-bed must now stop..

    So how’s that working? When I open the door, < I sleep with it open> she jumps on and lies quiet..

    So at this stage I’ve never had to remove priveledge of uninterrupted food access....

    Now if she lifted her cheeks / growled / snapped at me ............ watch this space.......

    Make sense?
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  17. Nutz

    Nutz Hot Topics Subscriber

    Hi K,

    One more thing.... Probibly the biggest "I lead you follow" test I regularly do is to physically take her bone / treat-food or kibble bowl from her as she is chewing or eating.....

    She must give it up without resistance..... Or her priveledges will get immediatly stopped...... So far, no problem, but she is still only 18 weeks....

    Scruffy tried once..............

    And for her iffy she got such a whollop I'm shure her butt sang Ava-Maria for 3 days..... Since then neither Scruffy or Mia <The Swiss Shephard> give me stick about this.
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  18. GennyB

    GennyB Moderator Hot Topics Subscriber

    The risk of bloat would worry me. That or insanity because they couldn't exercise. I make my dogs rest after eating. If they ate all the time that means they would be resting all the time. Nope! Couldn't do it, we'd all be insane. :weird:
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  19. Kaiser2016

    Kaiser2016 Active Member

    @Nutz You definitely got a handle over your dogs. I also like the test of taking the food bowl away. Food is usually the most valuable item that they would display resource guarding behavior from what I know. I ocassionly test K by taking away bully sticks or Kongs.

    I also worry about the risk of bloat that GennyB mentioned. Dobes have higher risk of that because of their deep chests. When we fed kibble it was always with a bit of water so that the kibble would swell in the bowl and not inside the stomach. Might be an option?
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  20. Nutz

    Nutz Hot Topics Subscriber

    Hi Guys... Thanks for the input, an interesting discourse indeed.

    Over the years, My observations of dogs eating, unrestricted, is that they eat only a little at a time (actual observation) but frequently....

    Here is my point on gastric problems, such as bloat... If a dog get's food, for example only once per day, then it will tend to consume everything that's put in-front of it, as quickly as possable... that's just natural....

    If, however, the dog has unrestricted access to food then, at any given time, it will tend to just satisfy the immediate hunger need

    So, with the dry kibble, when it swells, only a bit has been consumed, so the swelling won't have as much of an effect.

    I believe It's that tendency to "gorge" that is more likely to lead to gastric problems.

    GennyB : - Excercing... I find, that in the natural course of things, dogs exercise as much as they need to. The thing to bear in mind is that, with unrestricted access, the dogs are not "pigging-out" when they do eat... They are just solving a "I'm peckish" need. so they don't go to sleep because they are over-full.

    I believe, it is a more natural approach... Give nature credit, and let it get on with things... The dog will self regulate

    What I also watch for is overweight. this is easy to monitor by vieweing from above. There must be a definate narrowing from the rib-cage. If not then the dog is getting overweight...........

    So, then you limit slightly the amount of kibble, but still allow free access..... Moderating like that does not induce "gorging"

    Guys. the factory is closing now, but I'll clock in here on Moaning-day Morning............... All you fellas have a lover-ley weekend

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