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9 month old puppy training Problems.

Discussion in 'Doberman Puppies' started by Drogo, Sep 11, 2019 at 2:06 AM.

  1. Drogo

    Drogo New Member

    FIRST TIME DOBERMAN OWNER
    So drogo is 9 months 16 days old

    I train him daily at Night for 10-15 mins
    Using sun-dried fish bits he loves it
    Knows sit , down , come , take
    But works with some issues
    Not very toy enthusiastic
    No trainer in town. Only one vet so you can understand it's a small town

    1) he will react quick if he sees the treat in my hand if I hide the treat in my pocket well the reaction is either slow or absent

    2) on a long distance 'come' he charges towards me and jumps me for treat which is in my hand and some times won't listen keeps smelling something on the ground

    3) sometimes goes to 'down' when told 'sit'
    What can be used as a negative marker for wrong reaction (i change my position and say wrong wrong wrong)

    4) out of 10 commands he listens to 3-4 commands lucky if more

    5) for some commands he takes time to listen
    'Sit' gets quick reaction
    'Down' very slow to none
    'Inside the create' none, have raise (no hitting) a stick then he goes
    'come' listens in the beginning after some time in training loses focus and goes DEAF.

    6)won't listen to the command just wants the treat from my hand if I keep the palm closed keeps nibbling mi hand for the treat.

    Guys HELP sorry for such a long post and seems like I'm already here with a problem but please bare with me guys I don't want to make it any difficult for me or him


    PLEASE EXPLAIN POINT WISE IF POSSIBLE.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Atingles10

    Atingles10 Member

    Are you using some kind of marker when he does what you ask such as a clicker or yes? I figured I'd ask just to make sure that way he still knows he's correctly done what is asked even if you don't give a treat that time.

    In training our instructor said that it's good to work on phasing out the treats and not giving them every time. You could try randomly rewarding with the treat and spacing out when he gets them versus when he just gets the marker to know that he has done what he's asked.

    Do you tire him out any before training? I can tell you right now if I could not get some energy out of our guy before we go off to train then my life gets a little harder :facepalm:
    I would also train sometimes before dinner too so that the treats might be more enticing

    I will say that 9 months was sort of in the middle of the chaos stage for us and our guy was definitely testing us at that time It was key for us to stay consistent and make sure he knew what we expected out of him. We barely made it out of the doberteen with our sanity intact Haha
     
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  3. Doberman Gang

    Doberman Gang Hot Topics Subscriber

    1) you must teach focus on you for reward. Have treat in your hand but remove access to the food. Ask for attention, when your dog looks at you quickly mark the behavior and then give your dog access to the reward. Baby steps start with just holding food in closed hand, then you can slowly position hand in different places (at your side or behind your back ect...) dog only gets access for focus.

    2)you must first teach the end behavior before doing recalls. Dog must understand coming and sitting in front first. Once you teach this you can then take once step back and ask to come. Build distance slowly so he understands when called to cone he must come and sit politely in front.

    3) 4) and 5) this tells me you have not taught the commands properly or used motivation to get the behavior quickly. You must make training fun and intermittently gave play sessions during training to motive behavior. Sometimes training still be more play then training. It must be random reinforcement training, Lero your dog questing this will increase focus and drive during training.

    6) kind of explain above but you must close your hand then encourage your dog to look at you. Even for a split second. Then mark and reward. This teaches reward comes from giving you focus.
     
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  4. CRDobe

    CRDobe Notable member

    Since you don't have a trainer nearby, you might consider one of Micheal Ellis' DVD's from Leerburg. He's one of the best! Either hard copy or streaming. I would start with The Power of Training with Food. I live outside the US and found his methods invaluable in raising my puppy.
     
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  5. mshipway

    mshipway New Member

    When we were in training, we were taught like other have said and will likley also say, to start to shape the behaviour using the treats. and then work on stringing behaviours together, i.e. work harder to get the treat/reward.
    I.e. work towards what my trainer called a puppy push up(sit-down-stand- touch or traget hand with the nose)
    These dogs are insanely smart, and when using clicker training, we found often our Argo knew exactly what we were asking of him BUT wanted to test us to see if the answer was always the same. Sometimes asking for a sit he would go down, and we would wait it out for a while. Sometimes he would wait and wait and wait until he eventually got it right and then he is rewarded with a click and treat.
    Agree with Doberman Gang on all points.
    We were also taught something called 3 sets of 5 to get the puppy focused and kind of zone them in on "hey, its training time"
    which is simply 5x click and treat, 5x name and then treat, and then 5x name, eye contact click and then treat. With Argo, specifically in training when there was other dogs around until he matured a little, this helped drive him into focus so we could work on stuff he was not aware of.
    Sorry this is getting long, and this training method may not work or please everyone but it did work well for Argo.
    We also found out that when working Argo, work on something stationary then something where he was more active and then stationary again. Try to end an exercise on a good note meaning successful.
    and we often could tell when he was getting tired and zoned out of training.

    Hope even some of this can help you a little.
     
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  6. Drogo

    Drogo New Member

    Could you tell me how would a daily session look.
    What commands should be taught? ( i know it depends on me)
    I'd like
    Sit (does it when no distraction)
    Down (a little resistance)
    Stand (not taught yet)
    A release word for above commands until then stays
    Eat/drink (does well)
    Come (does when no distraction, and won't on distance)
    Leash walk (pulls)
    Door manners (sometimes bolts out)
    Fetch/tug (runs when ball/rope in mouth and won't come)

    AND THE MOST IMPORTANT HE CHARGES ON SOME PEOPLE BITES THEIR LEGS AND JUMPS,SCRATCHES
    SPECIALLY MY MOM AND MY BEST FRIEND I WANT HIM TO LEAVE THEM ALONE

    I'm sorry for such a long ramble.
     
  7. Atingles10

    Atingles10 Member

    We use okay as our release word. We started in the beginning by using the okay as the release word for our guy to eat. He has to lay down and can not move or eat until we say okay. This helped when we started on our stays. In training we learned to start small with the stays and build your way up. The key is so make sure you get the release word before they just leave on their own.

    The other word we added in earlier on that helped was wait. We use this when we don't want him barreling out of the house or car before us. We will open the doors and say wait but he can not go out until we release him with an okay.

    For jumping on family I would start with polite greetings. I would leash him to you when these people are coming around and have him work on being calm. I would put him in a sit and have him hold the sit as they come up. The second he breaks his sit, they must walk away. He needs to learn that he does not get the reward, aka their attention, unless he is sitting calmly. This one requires help and patience with the others too because it will take awhile in the beginning. You can give a couple treats as they get closer and he holds his sit to reinforce that this is what you are looking for. I would work on this part asap. Have you tried the umbilical cord method at all?
     
  8. Doberman Gang

    Doberman Gang Hot Topics Subscriber

    He should be put up in his kennel when people come over, then once they have been there for a little while get him out on leash and keep him with you. Reward calm and good behavior. He does not need to meet everyone, he just needs to understand what is expected. Too many people think socializing is a meet and greet thing. It is not, it is behaving in public or at home when others are present. It is your decision on who he is allowed to meet. When people continuously take there dogs to meet people, especially strangers it makes the dog think everyone is somebody to get treats or petting from. I don’t teach that.
     
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  9. Drogo

    Drogo New Member

    Thank you those are very useful for me
    Have not tried the umbilical cord as other than me no one likes the Dog inside the house (it's a apartment)
    But what about the
    Leash pulling and
    Fetch/where he runs away with the toy and won't even come for a treat.
     
  10. Doberman Gang

    Doberman Gang Hot Topics Subscriber

    Commands I use are in German but English wise would be;
    1-Sit
    2-Down
    3-Stand
    4-Heel
    5-Here
    (I only use this if I expect the dog to come sit front, otherwise my recall is their name)
    6-Recall again is dogs name.
    7-Out (let go)
    8-Go Out (send away)
    9-With me ( walking by my side but not at 10-attention like for heeling)
    11-Track
    12-search
    13-attack
    14-bite or grip
    15-take it
    16-hold
    17-up
    18-bring
    19-Kennel

    I also use markers of Yes, Good, OK and phooey.
    Occasionally I will yell shut up :rofl:
     
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  11. Atingles10

    Atingles10 Member

    Leash pulling is still an issue with us unless our guy has the prong. In training they suggested starting with the basics and rewarding for a loose leash. Then take a couple steps and mark/reward if the leash is still loose. I can tell you it's a long process though. For myself personally I use a combination of the prong and rewarding when he's not pulling.

    If he is not coming back after fetch then it sounds like he still needs work on recall. If my guy is struggling with recall I put him back on a long lead. He has to prove that he call be consistent with coming back or he doesn't go off leash unless we are in a fenced area. I feel like it's always better to start with shorter distances until they get it down. And also make sure you don't discipline him when he finally does come up you. It can be frustrating that you had to ball him a handful of times but if we discipline them when they finally do come to you they won't understand why or want to come next time.

    Our guy struggled with the whole distraction piece too. He would have his commands down inside the house but then when we went somewhere else the distractions were too much. You just have to keep working on it. It may seem like a lot of repetition but they need that to help make it stick.
     

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